I came across some talking about using the nauknauk AI app to animate their figures. I put this together in under 5 minutes. I doubt I will do much with this type of material, but I can see it having some presentation uses.

I just uploaded a photo of some Warlord Games Epic ACW and then instructed the AI to make the soldiers march forwards.

The below video is just 5 seconds long.

LINK

https://youtu.be/uSZUNSeReMI?si=aMW-w8zbFQgWTXuf

oh no! Another one :-)

Link

https://youtube.com/shorts/fI4h2EK9ooQ?si=BmYbJABK5i2Oc4Oy

If any of this interests you, have a look at Nik’s Blog and be amazed!

Link

https://youtu.be/CqfDKs385Is?si=PC-VUFcxh14QC03v

A couple of weeks ago I posted about an old set of Ancients rules that I (re)bought from Irregular Miniatures that basically held the entire system on half a dozen A6 sized cards that each dealt with one section from the sequence of play i.e. one card covering all the Movement Phase rules.

I was quite taken by them and ordered the Napoleonic and Renaissance sets on the back of that and they arrived today.

I like that they share a familiarity with each other, but that they are different enough to reflect period specifics.

The Napoleonic set talks about ‘moving a couple of corps to victory in 2 - 3 hours’, so they play at a higher organisation level than usually suits me. The brigade is the unit of manoeuvre, but its separate battalions are still represented on the table, it’s just that it fights as a brigade. Each brigade has a number of men in it (say 3500) and a Cohesion points Number (say 4).

As a unit fights, the chart gives combat results as a specific number of casualties (say 200) and this figure is used to reduce the brigades overall strength. Additionally any tests are run against the brigade’s Cohesion number (which will worsen with increasing casualties). If Cohesion drops to zero, the unit will become disordered and have various penalties, including retreating from the table on further failed tests.

There are elements here that remind me of some of my own rules - having individual units fighting as a ‘brigade’ reminds me of my Wars of the Roses rules in which the ‘wing’, ‘forward’, ‘rearward’ ‘mainward’ etc would absorb the casualties in one place from all the various individual component contingents of  bow, bill and skirmishers receiving losses.

Cohesion works much like my Horse & Musket rules that allow for units to deteriorate as casualties are absorbed, to the point that they start to fall back and eventually excuse themselves from the field - so obviously there are things here that I like and that interest me here.

The Pike & Shotte rules work differently as individual units accrue Fatigue Points to represent casualties and the friction of action and during play, tests are taken against a unit’s fatigue. As fatigue gets worse, units will increasingly tend to leave the field (rout), again this is similar to my Horse & Musket rules, so there are some common design sentiments there.

I was interested to see that the rules also cover late medieval, so an outing with the Wars of the Roses troops with these rules seems a likely prospect.

I had to wait a bit for these, because the Napoleonic set were being re-printed. They have been reproduced exactly as per 1989 set (the year I first bought them), with typewriter font etc, but without the box, a self seal bag serving the same function.

Anyway, two more blasts of nostalgia that I shall have some fun delving into and will put some examples of play up here when that happens.

I have been collecting the Anschluss resin vehicles for a while, with three German StuG IIIg's already painted when I did the Starter German Pocket Army.

While we have the summer weather, it is the time to get prepping done that needs a rattle can and then these can be put to one side and brush painted at anytime - so here we have the German collection so far.

I tend to game right down at the lower tactical level, so don't need a lot of vehicles, just 2 or 3 Panthers, that sort of thing.

There is a bit of a mix here including the Hetzer and a couple of armoured cars.

The parts (turret and body) are attached to coffee stirers using those gell type dots that stay rubbery and tacky. They give a good hold, but are not too difficult to remove.

They were sprayed with Revell Ochre Brown, which is a pretty good base for the colours that will follow.

Next the Soviet's can go on sticks and given a coating of Revell Nato Olive, which I have not used before, so let's hope ...... no surprises! 

All of this will set me well on the way to expanding the WWII Pocket Armies later in the year.

Plan ‘A’ is / was that by the end of the month, I will have a painted Prussian Regiment (like a brigade in most other nationalities orders-of-battle) and that it looks like this image ….. with 3 bases per battalion.

Two battalions of musketeers and one of Füsiliers.

In the early stages of building up a ‘Pocket Army’, I generally allow the armies to have just 2 bases per unit, just to get enough formations on the table to have an early game and then the extra base can be added as the painting production allows.

Coming off the painting corks today are the first 2 bases worth (4 musketeer  strips) ..... so the above goals are looking a little doubtful and as we are about to enter a heatwave that makes painting harder as the acrylic dries on the brush - it may well end up that by the end of the month that I only have 6 bases done, rather than the 9 that I would prefer to have. Either way, there should be some kind of game, a low level action, but a game never-the-less.

The bad back thing is taking further hold, so there is no gaming going on at the moment and painting has been cut to to 20 - 30 minutes per session, so even though from memory, the Epic Prussians seemed easier to paint last time I did them, they feel like they are taking longer with more sessions per painting group now needed.

I have based up some cannon for both sides, but whether these will see any paint in time for a game is uncertain.

The planets align!

I have been looking at doing a ‘Little Round Top’ scenario with the Epic ACW figures. I have a small boardgame (not the one shown here) to give a bit of inspiration.

While shopping at a HobbyCraft store (UK), I came across these ‘Boulder Outcropping’ by All Game Terrain, which can be placed on top of one of my standard hills to give a good craggy ‘Round Top’ look. They should scale well with the Epic.

The diagram shows that you can dab a bit of glue here and there to put in some flock, but I think you would have to be really careful not to over-do it. i will likely leave them as they are.

They might be useful in other settings to show a bit of rough ground. 

Fancy a dabble at board wargaming?

I have a players copy (punched and played) of Napoleon’s Last Battles to give away - free game, free postage - UK only, sorry.

This boardgame is the 2016 version by Decision Games.

It includes the classic original rules from the 70’s, with the additional variant rules that the fan base have introduced over the years. The player can choose just to use the original rules or to bolt on any of the variant suggestions.

It includes the four battles of the Waterloo campaign, which can be played individually (Quatre Bras, Ligny, Wavre, La Belle Alliance - Waterloo), plus the maps can be combined to do the whole 3 day campaign.

If interested, please use the ‘CONTACT’ tab at the bottom of the menu on the left and indicate your interest. I don’t need an address etc just yet.

I will keep this open until 6 PM on Sunday evening to give a chance for the usual visitors to catch this and then I will do names in a hat … or rather, Mrs. Wargamer will …. I think she might be pleased that something is actually going out of the house! :-)

I will post with the Royal Mail 48 tracked service, hence being limited to a UK address. As always, thanks to all who regularly pop by to check these ramblings out.

In total contrast to the very complicated ‘By Sword & Bayonet’ boardgame that I mentioned a couple of weeks ago, today I put this ‘Quick Play’ system on the table.

This is one of the mini folio games from Decision Games in their Musket & Saber series and it has the advantage of carrying the latest rules version, which offer an appreciated 'tidy up' over the previous version (and these are backwards compatible - good!), which also includes the Combat Result Table operating as the designer intended.

The series folios have 6 pages of none illustrated rules, an 11” x 17” map, 40 counters and come in at an attractive price of around £11 plus postage (at Second Chance Games in the UK). The latest four folio releases including his title, are The Hornet’s Nest (Shiloh), Balaclava and Hougoumont.

The photo here shows the map with the armies in their starting positions. The Confederates clearly look like they are about to overwhelm the Union positions, but in this 5 turn game, Union reinforcements come on early and their line becomes steadily stronger, so the Confederates must do what they can early, before they get contained.

There are two interesting aspects to these short rules.

1 - You don’t have to attack a unit that is next to you (i.e. Combat is not mandatory) ….. but, if you don’t, at the end of the combat phase, those ‘not attacked’ units can each launch a counter-attack and they have their strength double - so there are some nuanced choices to be made here.

2 - The combat system is unusual. There are 5 potential results on the Combat Result Table (one being no effect), but whichever side suffers the effect, it has to also take a morale check. If passed you check the result on the first column, but if failed, you check in the second column - the differences can bring a nice narrative and passing your morale might not always be the result that you want!

So a result of 'Dr' means the defender (D) suffers an ‘r’ result. If they fail their morale they will disrupt and retreat, but if they pass their morale, they stand in place and both sides take a loss (the good old 'Exchange' result) .... obviously they have put up stiff resistance and heavier casualties to both sides flow from that.

On first sight, with just 40 counters in play (6 of which are game markers) and a frontal assault, you might be forgiven for thinking there isn’t much opportunity for dynamism here, but you quickly get drawn into the game down at the individual hex level, looking for local advantage. 

There are 9 victory points to gain from occupying locations - The Wheatfield, Devils Den, Little Round Top (but not Big Round Top) and the various road entry points that reinforcements arrive at. To win, the Confederates must score at least 5 VP’s ….. getting 4 seems straight forward, but you have to work for that 5th point and this I think is where the game tension sits.

It plays quickly. They say 60 - 90 minutes, that is probably about right in a face-to-face game, but my solo games have been coming in at around the one hour mark.

The scale for this battle is 176 yards to the hex and 45 minutes to the turn. Generally a brigade is represented with a pair of counters, for example Semmes ‘A’ and Semmes ‘B’.

There are no command and control rules, but I feel compelled to keep the A & B counters of each brigade operating together (adjacent or stacked), rather than doing fancy footwork to ‘count and perfect’ odd ratios in attack. Applying that discipline does bring some naturally occurring moments of frustrations and opportunities - nice!

I used to have a lot of these folio games, but they were thrown away in the big and unforgiving clear-out last year! I can see myself buying back a few of those titles and having a more enjoyable game using these updated rules. They would make very good vacation games.

Today the 9th Confederate regiment moves from the painting corks and advances to barracks. I am painting the regiments in pairs of two bases, so altogether, I now have 18 Confederate infantry bases.

Mathematically this hits a useful number. With regiments made from two bases, I get 9 regiments, if made from three bases, I get 6 regiments.

Visually, I much prefer units formed from three bases and this is ideal for small engagements, say two brigades at three regiments each or some such. If needing three brigades, I can drop the units down to two bases.  

There is also the opportunity to mix and match to reflect regiments that are notably smaller or bigger than those around them.

Anyway, it’s time to take a temporary rest from ACW painting now and jack-up something else. I can’t decide what deserves the attention of the brush next. I have some Epic French infantry that were recently commission painted, so it makes sense to spend July painting up a few Prussian units for some early gaming, but the urge to get a Hannibal pairing to the table is strong!

In the background, I am putting WWII city block buildings together. These are going to need to be spray primed, so I need to get to that point while we still have the good weather and I can do the spraying outdoors.

I sometimes wish that I only figure gamed in one period so that army building could be a more leisurely activity!

I have been looking through the new battle box for Warlord Games' Epic Revolution (AWI) and have put a few thoughts down about the content and what I initially plan to do with it.

There are a few pictures, which doesn't work here as a long post, so I have put it up over on the Battlefields & warriors site.

LINK

https://battlefieldswarriors.blogspot.com/2025/06/epic-revolution-awi.html

Here are the first three of the eight MDF building packs that I bought from Pendraken at the Phalanx wargame show.

I will build all 8 before doing any decorating as that way, doing them all at one time should give a visually consistent look amongst them.

The two buildings on the left are small, the one on the right is medium and I have two large buildings amongst those kits that still need building, so there will be a nice mix in this slice of town that I am building.

For scale comparison, I have put a 1/144  vehicle and rifle section into the picture.

So far, each of the builds has had some minor 'fit' problems, but I have worked around that without much issue.

Once built, I will need to give some thought as how best to 'dress' them with regards to building texture, internal and external rubble and whether pavements need to be added.

The first of some coverage of things bought at the Phalanx show and the fall out from that.

This is the Geek Villain fleece gaming mat bought from Bow & Blade Games (£60) to cover a 6x4 table. It was all bagged up and so I wasn’t sure what the full mat would look like. I just wanted a general anonymous ‘countryside’ mat that would have some lighter greens and so look a bit different from my current mat.

Once home and opened, I saw that it offered a road and river junction. At first I was a bit disappointed that it was not just rolling fields as ‘imagined’, but the image is really growing on me and I think it will be quite useful. There is certainly plenty of visual texture.

Thinking about it, I have run a few bridge / road scenarios over recent months, with Napoleonic Marengo, the ACW fictitious Mill Creek from my own rules and the battles for. the two bridges over Mott’s Run in my home brew ACW Graysville Campaign.  

The mat comes folded in a bag and unsurprisingly is creased when you take it out. I just placed it out on the floor to settle and incredibly all the creases had pretty much fallen out when I next checked, half an hour later to photograph it - impressive.